{"id":264,"date":"2013-05-30T20:28:23","date_gmt":"2013-05-30T19:28:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/carnold.nl\/?p=264"},"modified":"2020-12-20T18:59:43","modified_gmt":"2020-12-20T17:59:43","slug":"toerenteller-inbouwen-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/carnold.nl\/en\/toerenteller-inbouwen-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Toerenteller inbouwen (2)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Vandaag ben ik verder gegaan met het inbouwen van het nieuwe instrumentencluster. De dag begon met het afknippen van de oude stekkers. The point of no return<\/em>:<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Vervolgens heb ik de resterende kabelspaghetti voorzien van nieuwe stekkers:<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Hierna konden de combinatiestekkers van het nieuwe instrumentencluster aangesloten worden op de bestaande bedrading. Dit is grotendeels kleur-op-kleur, het viel me op dat de draden van de Sunny (bouwjaar ’90) een stuk dunner waren dan die aan het instrumentencluster (bouwjaar ’87). Kennelijk is er een besparingsmaatregel doorgevoerd door later iets dunnere draden te gebruiken. Na tien minuutjes stekkertjes aansluiten krijg je dit:<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Als het goed is houd je twee kabeltjes over: een rood\/witte en een blauw\/witte. Deze zijn beide van de toerenteller. De blauw\/witte blijft over, dat is het toerentellersignaal voor de dieselmotor. De rood\/witte is de signaalkabel voor de toerenteller bij een benzinemotor, deze ontbreekt in de kabelboom van mijn Sunny omdat deze af fabriek geen toerenteller heeft. Je zou zeggen, wat is de besparing als je \u00e9\u00e9n kabeltje weglaat? Anyway, er moet dus een nieuw draadje getrokken worden van de bobine naar de toerenteller.
\nHere we go:<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Aan de onderste stekker zie je een zwart kabeltje met een rode streep. Die moeten we hebben! Ik heb er een lekker opvallende geel\/groene kabel aan gesoldeerd:<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Daarna was het een kwestie van aansluiten op het instrumentencluster en het geheel terugplaatsen zodat we kunnen testen (sorry voor de zeer matige beeldkwaliteit):<\/p>\n

First start<\/a><\/p>\n

Je ziet dat de brandstofmeter helemaal naar rechts uitslaat, voorbij de schaalverdeling. Niet goed dus. Het bleek dat het draadje aangesloten was op de 12-volt voeding. Even het draadje verwisseld en toen werkte ook de brandstofmeter naar behoren. Daarna kon de kap weer op zijn plek:<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Hierna heb ik nog even de boel gedemonteerd omdat het spiraalveertje van de snelheidsmeteraanwijzer (3x woordwaarde) iets aan spanning verloren was. 86 km\/u op de GPS was 100 km\/u op de teller. Na herstel is de snelheidsmeter behoorlijk accuraat, tot 60 km\/u is de meter exact, bij 120 km\/u bedraagt de afwijking 7%. Not bad, toch?<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vandaag ben ik verder gegaan met het inbouwen van het nieuwe instrumentencluster. 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